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Affordable Ways to Plant Grass Seed In Fall!

Tutorial Tuesday (1)

Hello again, savvy savers! I’m not sure about you, but I’m ready for milder weather to start ushering in the change of seasons in my neck of the woods! Though we are in Summer, there are still gardening chores which need our attention at present, including planting various types of grass seed in that will be used this Fall.

So, why plant grass see in Fall? A lush green yard is the envy of every neighborhood, but it can be a challenge to obtain. There is much more to green grass than simply sun and water! A beautiful green yard is often the result of using the correct fertilizer, aeration techniques, type of grass seed used, and most importantly, when the seed is planted. 

Here’s why: The time in which the grass seed was planted is the most important factor in determining proper seed germination. A lush green yard is the envy of every neighborhood, but it can be a challenge to obtain. There is much more to green grass than simply sun and water! A beautiful green yard is often the result of using the correct fertilizer, aeration technique and type of grass seed. The time in which the grass seed was planted is also an important factor. To complicate matters further, the type of grass seed planted and when to plant it varies from state to state, but a general rule of thumbs is that Fine Fescue Grass, Rye Grass, and Kentucky Blue Grass should always be planted in winter. 

Here are a few tips to keep in mind when planting Winter grasses:

  • First, look for any storms that may be coming up. You’ll be more successful if you sow the seeds just prior to a rain shower, but not a down pour, to avoid washing your seeds down the drain.
  • Secondly, do not plant during an extreme cold snap; temperatures of 40 degrees or over during the day are ideal.
  • After you plant your grass seeds, you should see new sprouts no later than two weeks afterwards.
  • If it has been two weeks and there are no grass sprouts or very few then reseed and make sure you water thoroughly.
  • The soil you plant your seeds in should remain moist during germination; moist, not saturated.
  • Do not walk on grass seeds once planted. Grass seed germinates and grows best in dirt that is loose and not compacted. 
  • Compost. Be sure to add compost over seeds when planting. 

Beyond these tips, my greatest piece of advice I can give to those planting grass seed in winter? A natural, organic ground cover! For me, I like to create a re-usable seed blanket for my lawn using Autumnal Display Hay Bales, as so many people use bales as part of their Fall Garden Displays, which were torn apart, and thrown over top of scattered grass seed.

Here how I did it:

  1. Clear your area. I used a blower and mulched under all debris left from the Winter.
  2. Rake your area. Rake, till, or shovel your area until the top soil is loose and easily moved.
  3. Purchase seeds for your yard; find the appropriate type of seeds based on the amount of sun, wind, rain, and what forms of recreation will occur on your seed.
  4. Spread your seed! Lightly and evenly is key here!
  5. Cover your seeds with hay!
  6. Water your seeds daily. In my case, I layered seed today as it was going to rain. Be diligent and water daily, by hand, and do not use a sprinkler.
  7. Lay the Hay! That’s right, shake it up, shake it loose, shake it down to the ground! I danced my way to a covered first tier.
  8. Do not walk on the seeds. Like tile work, work your way from corner to corner, and work your way backwards, and away from your projects!
  9. Allow your seed to grow. Your lawn will begin sprouting in 2-3 weeks.
  10. Maintenance. If you grass has patches where seeds have not grown, use emergency my tried-and-tested seed repair kit, bird seed mix! Take two cups bird seeds, add water until its porridge-like, and apply to the ground! The water will detract birds, and help jump-start the seed germination.
  11.  Grooming. Yes, grass should be groomed, too! Be sure to wait a full two months to mow your new lawn for the first time, and when you do so, make sure your mower is not adjusted down too low, and be sure to be even in your cutting!
  12. Aerate your lawn. Use cleats, spikes, or the like to aerate your soil twice a year, in April and October.
  13. Water your lawn. Water your grass three times a week in Spring and Fall, and daily in Summer, unless prohibited by drought; if drought is an issue consider other means like rain barrels or collected bath water.
  14. Feed your lawn. Be sure to feed your law appropriate lawn-feed in Autumn, and a grass-supported food, bi-monthly in warmer weather. 
  15. Weeding. If you need to remove weeds, use white vinegar in a spray bottle! 

So, that’s it! That’s how you can achieve your best lawn, for those with Fine Fescue Grass, Rye Grass, and Kentucky Blue Grass, is to plant your lawns in winter!

Here’s to gardening,

mbnlogosm

Gardening on a Budget: How to Buy & Care For Mums!

Hello again, savvy savers! this weekend is a very, very slow weekend in my garden, as the last of my summer plants are now being weeded and tilled under. The humidity of late summer is long since past, and how the time turns to focus on winter preparation.

Beyond this score, my husband and I are spending time this weekend raking leaves, mowing our lawn, and the final weeding session of the year for out Chrysanthemum beds.

However, one area of garden happiness for me this week is that my discounted chrysanthemums, purchased from Walmart last Autumn for $0.50 a plant, have doubled in size and are starting to bloom for the fall, and within the next month will be gorgeous; I planted the bed in rotating patterns of orange, yellow, and white to mimic candy corn!

Gardening-On-a-Budget-Homesteading-and-Health1

 

Here are a few tips for those looking to get started caring for their mums this year:

1) As well, generally speaking, its best to buy mums as soon as night temps drop into the fifties, by mid-September. This is, of course, the rule unless you live below the Mason-Dixon line, in which case Back-to-School sales also signal the time to buy mums!

2) So, you may be thinking, which plants to buy? The answer is simple. Buy the colors and varieties best zoned for your area, with the only overall area of caution is to buy plants only as they start to break bud. You’ll maximize bloom time. Another trick, to make sure you are buying the right color and variety, be sure to match the blooms-to-tags, to find the color and type of flower you’re after. Always check plant tags with their handy cross-referenced blooms to avoid stock and shock error; garden centers usually group like selections together, but errors can happen.

3) You will stretch your saving-saving dollar by choosing darker shades, such as bronze and burgundy as spent, wilted flowers are less noticeable. The same is true for mums with double, as opposed to single, daisy-like blooms, especially for yellow and white varieties.

4) Like hair, lattes, and mums, bigger IS better! Inevitably, what you see in-store, is what you will get for the rest of the growing season. So, to ensure your displays are top notch, buy the bigger plant.

5) Once buds start to open on mums, you’re pretty much-guaranteed flowers―no matter where you display them.

6) Your mum’s soil must stay be moist, but never sopping wet. Check daily while the weather is warm, especially in the deep south, and then every other day when it’s cooler. If plants dry out, submerge in a bucket of water, or jab a sharp pencil into the soil several times and then water.

7) Fertilizing is not necessary for mums; though compost can be applied post-growing season, every other year.

8) Always remove faded mum blooms to encourage even more buds to open, and you’ll have color through October.

9) For those with mums planted in-ground, early August is the time to stop plucking blooms off of plants, start concentrated feedings, add new mulch, and let the growing season commence for your mums.

10) Chrysanthemums grow best and produce the most vibrant array of flowers if they are planted in full sunshine. They respond to plenty of food and moisture.

Be sure to recap:

  • There are hundreds of varieties of Chrysanthemums, giving you a multitude of options for height, color, flower size and time of bloom.
  • If you live above the Mason-Dixon line, purchase the earlier bloomers.
  • Mums can be started as seeds, from cuttings and dividing, or can be purchased at a nursery in sizes from bedding plants up to gallon size and larger plants.
  • They should be planted into well prepared, fertile, sandy soil.
    By Thanksgiving, pluck all of your mum blossoms off of your plants, so that they can start their natural dormancy stage this winter.
  • Water mums weekly, fertilize monthly with liquid plant food.
  • At the end of the season, generally, post-Thanksgiving, cut back plants to four inches, and re-mulch your beds a second time, to prevent winter frost.

So, those are my tips for growing mums. If you have any mum care tips, pictures, or advice, shoot me an email or leave me a message and I’d love to feature you next week on my weekly gardening post. If you have tips for caring for your mums at home, please share with me below!

Gardening Update, 6/21!

Gardening-On-a-Budget-Homesteading-and-Health

Happy Sunday, everyone! Here is this weeks gardening update!

This week I was able to plant the other half of my herbs, including my lavender, thyme, basil, lemon grass, parsley, bay leaves, and mint. Also, the tomato sprouts are coming up and in a week, should be able to be thinned, and then planted outside! Even in the face of all the horrific storms this week, everything was thankfully spared, and growing right on schedule! As for the other areas of my year, we have had nearly constant rainfall, so tilling and further planting has been on standstill, for the next three posts, I should have plenty to share; I will be planting both my potted and upside varieties next weekend. Aside from rain, and the largest amount of pollen I have ever seen (we have composted four trash barrels full), out pots of Green beans are beautiful, as seen above!

Also, the squash plant, though small, is growing! In addition, my mum plants from last fall have doubled in size, and will have sucker that need to be plucked in the next few weeks! This week to come I will be planting my hill of strawberries, starting potato and sweet potato towers, as well as creating a summer butterfly flower bed!  As well, my $1.00 rose bushes from Fred’s Super Dollar have thus far produced some of the most beautiful roses I have ever grown, as seen above. They are just so lovely, and I will be giving some today to my wonderful Grandmother for Mother’s Day! I also love my free lattice, as it was recycled from discarded pallets, and works just as well as anything purchased at my local supercenter! I feed my roses a special homemade blend, which i will be blogging about in the weeks to come!

Here’s to next week!

mbnlogosm

Organic, Natural Pesticide Spray, For Under $1.00!

Natural

Hello again, savvy savers! Yesterday I received the following message from reader, Nicole:

I’m a single mother and this is my 2nd year trying this. (Last year bugs ate all my crops) i was wondering if you by chance had a recipe or cheap pesticide so my daughter (and myself) don’t go through the unbearable site of our crops being eaten again?

Well, Nicole I concur. Garden pests are one of the few things I find simply deplorable; working day in and day out on weekends, tilling a patch growing seeds by hand, waiting for seeds to germinate, be planted, nurtured, and mature, only to be eaten- by pesky garden bugs! What could be more frustrating, in terms of gardening? Whether it’s the snails taking over your lettuce, or the aphids decimating on your roses — it’s annoying! But fear not, there is no need to again reach for harmful, toxic sprays as I am going to share my go-to recipe for DIY, Natural, Organic Garden Pesticide Spray!

This spray is easy to keep on hand, costs under $1.00 to make, and should take care of most of those annoying common pests such as aphids, mites, white flies, thrips, Japanese Beetles, borers, grasshoppers, mealy bugs, and slugs. Garlic also deters larger pest like deer and rabbit.

Here is how to make your pesticide base:

  • Spray bottle
  • Strainer
  • Funnel
  • Glass Bowl
  • 1 1/2 Teaspoons Murphy’s Oil Soap
  • 25 Drops of Lemon Essential Oil
  • 3 Tablespoons Olive Oil
  • 3 Tablespoons Baking soda
  • 1/4 Teaspoon Garlic Powder
  • 1/2 Teaspoon Chili powder
  • 1 Quart Water

Instructions:

  1. Take your water and heat until warm; place into your bowl.
  2. Next, add the baking soda and oil to the water until it dissolves. 
  3. Add all your spices and stir until mixed. 
  4. Cover your bowl and let sit overnight to steep.
  5. The next day, strain over a strainer and funnel into a spray bottle.
  6. Add your essential oil.
  7. Your spray is ready for use.
  8. This blend will last one month. 

Please note: Always spray your plants with this blend in the morning, before the sun is too hot or you run the risk of burning the leaves of your plant; generally before 11 am and before the outside temperature is 80 degrees. Also, while this spray is non-toxic, it will kill beneficial bugs along with the harmful ones, too. I recommend using these sprays sparingly, only treating the infected plants, not with a garden sprayer or the like. Enjoy!

Here’s to gardening,

mbnlogosm

 

(Please note, this blend was first seen on TheLadyPrefers2Save.com)

Spring Gardening To Lose Weight!

photos.demandstudios.com-getty-article-34-58-86540161_XS

Hello again, savvy savers! Today I am starting another new blog series, Battle Of The Bulge, Budget-Style! I will be focusing on ways to live a healthier, more active lifestyle while be able to afford clean, organic, obtainable foods! I believe this series can be worthwhile for many, who like myself, wish to get more in shape, not through crash-dieting but by small attainable lifestyle changes!  

All of the changes I propose will be free or affordable, and most meals and plans will contain couponed savings or deals! Fads are fancy, but coupons are a commitment! With that said, here is where I am currently: I have a family history of high blood pressure, diabetes, and cancer. I am looking to lose 60lbs., find affordable non-gym membership options for working out, and change the way I consume food; this includes meals, snacks, and splurges!

Today I am 32years young, I am 5’6”, and weigh 187 lbs; I am down one pound since last week. I walk my dogs but beyond this am not terribly active. My lifestyle causes sedentary behaviors; I work-from-home, blog, run two internet businesses, and perform advocacy work online as well. I am an internet-based excuser! Today this changes! Spring has sprung, and so shall I! I have taken up yoga, and have started working out with a pedometer on as well!

For my 8th post, I wanted to discuss a new measure I have implemented to help in my healthier lifestyle choice, gardening! Did you know that according to the American Heart Association, gardening 1 hour daily will burn up to 400 calories, and considering that the average weekend project tales 4-6 hours, and that maintaining your yard weekly, in warmer weather, will take nearly 1 hour a day, you would, on average burn upwards of 2,400 calories a week! An entire days worth of calories! This is a staggering number! For me, I make sure to water the plants, lawn, and mow as often as I can, as its no longer a chore for me, but an exercise! I love that performing tasks for  hobby can lead to better health!

How awesome is that? For a small, simpler routine,  here is my suggested, and used, gardening workout routine:

  • Pull weeds in 1 flower bed for 10 minutes
  • Rake mulch back into place in all beds, as needed, for 10 minutes
  • Fertilize roses, bushes, and low-lying shrubs for 10 minutes
  • Manually edge 30 feet of driveway, sidewalk, or straight-edged areas, 20 minutes
  • Water front flowers beds, 10 minutes

Also, adding the additional several hours per week that will be consumed by raking, gathering, and bagging Autumnal leaves, will help you lose an additional 150 calories, per two hour session! 

So, by my routine, all of which I can accomplish before 8 am, or after 6 pm, and will burn 400 calories! No gym membership or lawn service needed! This is an awesome way to put on a few podcasts, listen to a cd, or just have some time to yourself, and your yard, for nothing more than time! I also keep my Shih-Tzu, Sassy with me while gardening to lose weight; I have metal screw-into-the-yard hooks in various places in my yard, which I leash and harness Sassy to, and move her from area to area; so I can bond with my fuzzy-love, lose weight, and clean my yard at the same time!  This is one of my favorite ways to burn extra calories, while creating a more serene home for my family and myself!

Also, if you are looking for other ways to save money, lose weight, and maintain your yard, beds, and landscaping, be sure to check out my frugal garden tips, here! 

Here’s to the Journey!

niki

DIY Indoor Organic Gardening Setup!

How (1)

Good afternoon, fellow gardeners! Today, I wanted to share with you how to create a DIY Indoor Organic Gardening Setup!  This is the affordable, easy-as-pie setup I create annually for my seedlings, which will make up my various summer and fall gardens this year; this series will span 16 weeks so please check back each Sunday! Here’s how to create it

Step 1: I purchased my green shelves from Walmart for 12.98 each! The shelves are simple to put together, and are light enough I can carry them loaded with plants by myself. The shelves are placed in front of my dining room windows, without any window coverings to maximize light and promote seed germination. As a side note, I am redecorating my dining room and that’s why it looks so empty!

Step 2: Install Lighting. I add greenhouse lighting by hanging fluorescent under cabinet light strips, purchased at Walmart for $5.98 each, by 4 inch s-hook, below each shelf. I plug each light into a surge protector, which is plugged into the wall. The seedlings will needs the light strips turned on for 16 hours a day, turning them off at night, when I go to bed, and back on in the morning when I begin my day.

Step 3: Creating mini-greenhouse stations. I find that growing my own seedlings works best for both my desire to organically produce frosh pesticide-free produce for my family, as well as my need to stay with my budget for my envelope savings system monthly budget. With that said, I produce my own garden plants by creating mini-indoor greenhouses! I start by using disposable covered baking pans from the Dollar Tree, which come in a 2-pack for $1.00.

PicMonkey Collage1

Step 4: Create seed pots.

  • I use newspaper to create my seedling pots, which is an awesome savings, as seedling pots cost $3.98 for 12 at my local Walmart, and I make mine for free using recycled newspaper; as well, my local newspaper uses soy ink, so the ink will not be toxic to my germinating seeds. Below I will show you the steps to create my pots.
  • First, gather a sheet of newspaper, laid fully flat, on a flat surface.
  • Next, split your sheet of newspaper in half, along the crease.
  • Then, tear the half sheets in half again, creating quart-size pages.
  • Next, fold an one inch section, away from you, of the quarter sheet; be sure to crease the page once folded over.
  • Next, fold the sheet in half, lengthwise again; again making sure to crease your line. Then flip your sheet over and fold the uneven edge one inch up, away from you; be sure to crease that fold as well.
  • Now you will need a can; I use a small aluminum can. Take your sheet, place you can on one end of the sheet, making sure to align the end of the paper, one inch down the can, with the crease in the fold, and then roll the paper around the can. At this point, secure your can roll with a piece of tape, along the lose seem, and I used packaging tape; it was a couponed freebie!
  • Now, you will need to flip your can over, and secure your seedling cup bottom with another piece of tape. Now, invert your can and in a circular motion, loosen your cup away from the can, sliding in a spiral motion down, until the cup comes fully away from the can. At this point, fold a 1/2 inch section of the top rim of the cup into itself, creating a smooth, rimmed edge.
  • Repeat these steps, creating a total of 12 cups. Take the 12 cups and place them into the cake pans.

PicMonkey Collage2

Step 5: Planting Your Seeds.

  • For this step you will plant your seeds for germination; I used seeds from my local Dollar Tree, which to my surprise were non-GMO seeds, and many varieties were heirloom quality as well.
  • You will need to purchase a potting soil mix, or make your own; I will be posting this week a recipe to make your own, but for this tray I used a commercial blend soil.
  • When filling your cups, you will then fill your cups with a basic, light potting soil mix, leaving 1/2 inch space from the top of the cup.
  • Next, take a sharpie marker and punch holes in the soil of each cup, making sure to go 1 inch down. Then place on seed in each hole, in each up, then re-cover with soil mix. 

Step 6: Watering your cups. You will then need to saturate the cups. You will do this by placing 2 cups of lukewarm water in the bottom of each tray; the water will be absorbed within 5 minutes. The water will be absorbed up the newspaper cups. This is very interesting to watch! Also, do not be concerned of mold or rot, as the water being poured into the tray will help keep the seeds moist, but not damp.

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Step 7: Move your tray to your shelving unit. Next, using a clean spray bottle, mist the tops of your cups, with an even mist for 30 second, or until thoroughly wet. A tip is to tilt the plastic cover top, backwards away from the shelf, at an angle, to prevent the mist from touching your lighting. Then place the packet cover, indicating which seeds you planted, on the side of each tray, and then firmly secure the plastic cover to your tray. Condensation will form on the tops of the trays, but this is normal, and precisely what you are aiming for; remember you are recreating the greenhouse effect, indoors!

Step 8: Repeat the above, until all of your shelves are full. As well, please note that seeds will need to be misted daily, for a full 30 seconds a tray.Please stay turned as next Sunday I will unveil my full shelves, and the next steps towards my budget-friendly gardening system!

Please stay tuned each week to see my seedling progress!

Here’s to greener living,

Shamrock 21

 

Planting Grass Seed In Winter

Gardening On A Budget

 

Hello again, savvy savers! Though many of us are still in the midst of a winter freeze, we are now officially one month out of Spring! Woohoo! I’m not sure about you, but I’m ready for warmer, milder weather to start ushering in the change of seasons in my neck of the woods! Though we are in winter, there are still gardening chores which need our attention at present, including planting various types of grass seed in winter.

So, why plant grass see in winter? A lush green yard is the envy of every neighborhood, but it can be a challenge to obtain. There is much more to green grass than simply sun and water! A beautiful green yard is often the result of using the correct fertilizer, aeration techniques, type of grass seed used, and most importantly, when the seed is planted. 

Here’s why: The time in which the grass seed was planted is the most important factor in determining proper seed germination. A lush green yard is the envy of every neighborhood, but it can be a challenge to obtain. There is much more to green grass than simply sun and water! A beautiful green yard is often the result of using the correct fertilizer, aeration technique and type of grass seed. The time in which the grass seed was planted is also an important factor. To complicate matters further, the type of grass seed planted and when to plant it varies from state to state, but a general rule of thumbs is that Fine Fescue Grass, Rye Grass, and Kentucky Blue Grass should always be planted in winter. 

Here are a few tips to keep in mind when planting Winter grasses:

  • First, look for any storms that may be coming up. You’ll be more successful if you sow the seeds just prior to a rain shower, but not a down pour, to avoid washing your seeds down the drain.
  • Secondly, do not plant during an extreme cold snap; temperatures of 40 degrees or over during the day are ideal.
  • After you plant your grass seeds, you should see new sprouts no later than two weeks afterwards.
  • If it has been two weeks and there are no grass sprouts or very few then reseed and make sure you water thoroughly.
  • The soil you plant your seeds in should remain moist during germination; moist, not saturated.
  • Do not walk on grass seeds once planted. Grass seed germinates and grows best in dirt that is loose and not compacted. 
  • Compost. Be sure to add compost over seeds when planting. 

Beyond these tips, my greatest piece of advice I can give to those planting grass seed in winter? A natural, organic ground cover! For me, I like to create a re-usable seed blanket for my lawn using Autumnal Display Hay Bales, as so many people use bales as part of their Fall Garden Displays, which were torn apart, and thrown over top of scattered grass seed.

Here how I did it:

  1. Clear your area. I used a blower and mulched under all debris left from the Winter.
  2. Rake your area. Rake, till, or shovel your area until the top soil is loose and easily moved.
  3. Purchase seeds for your yard; find the appropriate type of seeds based on the amount of sun, wind, rain, and what forms of recreation will occur on your seed.
  4. Spread your seed! Lightly and evenly is key here!
  5. Cover your seeds with hay!
  6. Water your seeds daily. In my case, I layered seed today as it was going to rain. Be diligent and water daily, by hand, and do not use a sprinkler.
  7. Lay the Hay! That’s right, shake it up, shake it loose, shake it down to the ground! I danced my way to a covered first tier.
  8. Do not walk on the seeds. Like tile work, work your way from corner to corner, and work your way backwards, and away from your projects!
  9. Allow your seed to grow. Your lawn will begin sprouting in 2-3 weeks.
  10. Maintenance. If you grass has patches where seeds have not grown, use emergency my tried-and-tested seed repair kit, bird seed mix! Take two cups bird seeds, add water until its porridge-like, and apply to the ground! The water will detract birds, and help jump-start the seed germination.
  11.  Grooming. Yes, grass should be groomed, too! Be sure to wait a full two months to mow your new lawn for the first time, and when you do so, make sure your mower is not adjusted down too low, and be sure to be even in your cutting!
  12. Aerate your lawn. Use cleats, spikes, or the like to aerate your soil twice a year, in April and October.
  13. Water your lawn. Water your grass three times a week in Spring and Fall, and daily in Summer, unless prohibited by drought; if drought is an issue consider other means like rain barrels or collected bath water.
  14. Feed your lawn. Be sure to feed your law appropriate lawn-feed in Autumn, and a grass-supported food, bi-monthly in warmer weather. 
  15. Weeding. If you need to remove weeds, use white vinegar in a spray bottle! 

So, that’s it! That’s how you can achieve your best lawn, for those with Fine Fescue Grass, Rye Grass, and Kentucky Blue Grass, is to plant your lawns in winter!

Here’s to gardening,

Shamrock 21